EAST PELOPONNESE: CRUISING IN DIFFERENT GREEK REGIONS

                                                                                                                                                   Kiparissi

East Peloponnese is characterized by having moderate to weak winds, in fact, the Meltemi passes at large, and even when is strong there is much less wind on this coast.

      Old Monemvasia

The katabatic winds oppose the Meltemi and that results in a haven to escape when the wind is too strong in the Cyclades. The wind can come from the North or South and when the Meltemi in the central Aegean is strong, from NE.

Sometimes the wind can be so weak and changeable that it only allows for short sailing jumps, otherwise you have to use the engine. 

     Kremmydi

But on this coast the distance between nice places and suitable anchorages is not big, so, if you decide to go slowly, enjoying de scenery, and what this coast has to offer, that will not be a problem.

On the other hand, it will be difficult to sail (without using the engine) nonstop the 60 miles between Cape Malea (on the South) to the small port of Tyrós (North), at the Argolic gulf entrance.

      Kremmydi

On this coast, there are not many cruising boats, practically all anchorages are beautiful and you will find out that the whole region has that laid-back tourist characteristic that I enjoy, with nice friendly people, good prices, and good food.

This coast has been inhabited since prehistoric times and it was dominated by Argos, today almost forgotten, even if it is the oldest permanently inhabited city in Europe.

Its foundation was in neolithic times, 7000 years ago. It was the first big Greek city, the more powerful in Mycenic times, and stood among the most powerful till the Classical Greek era. 

Kiparissi

That Argos had managed to survive till today is a major feat that few Greek ancient cities have managed, but after initially having defeated Sparta in a fight for the dominance of the Peloponnese, they were traitorously defeated by the Spartans in the battle of Sepeia: the two armies had agreed a 7-day truce but the Spartans attacked the 3rd night and slaughtered the Argives. Later the Spartans said they had not breached the truce, which was for 7-days, not nights. 

Kiparissi

Since then, and for several centuries, Sparta dominated most of this region, even if Argos and Sparta continued through centuries the long battle for the Peloponnese domination. In the end Argos survived better than Sparta, which lost almost all importance, while in the 19th century Argos was seriously considered to become Greece's capital city.

Starting from Cape Malea the first very nice spot will be at 17 miles, Monemvasia, the medieval and the ancient one. They are the first great natural anchorages on this quite long stretch of coast, giving protection to practically all winds. Monemvasia offers also a marina/port that has recently been upgraded and enlarged.

Medieval Monemvasia

If Monemvasia can be a bit crowded due to its medieval urban heritage, the chances are that you will find almost deserted anchorages a mile away, in old Monemvasia, and on the other nearby anchorage. 

You will have sometimes difficulty knowing what location I am talking about because on this shore, due to being far from the main touristic circuits, they appear on the maps with names written only in Greek, sometimes without any reference or with different names, depending on the map you are looking at. 

Medieval Monemvasia

I have already talked in the previous article about Medieval Monemvasia. You can find it here:

https://sailingalma.blogspot.com/2022/10/sailing-and-cruising-in-different-greek.html

What I call Old Monemvasia is a good example of that difficulty with names and places. It is located East of the ancient town of Epidaurus Limera, in a place that is now called Old Monemvasia, but there is no name on Google map, not even for the small village, even if on Navily you can find quite a number of very positive references, but no name for those references (only the location). 

Fokianos

I stayed just in front of Annema hotel which has a small pontoon that serves just right for the dinghy and that is reported (in Navily) to be a good place to have a meal.

I haven't tried it yet, but I will next year. It is a lovely and quiet place, a good anchorage that extends itself to the ancient town, with a sand/mud bottom with some rocks in between.

Fokianos

Immediately to the East, you will have another big bay with several good anchorages. The bay has no name on google maps (Navily) and the only reference you will find there is the small village of Gialos. On C-map and Navionics it appears as Kremmydi. No restaurant there but lots of space to anchor, surrounded by tranquility and beauty. 

Only  4 miles to the North, stands Gerakas, a deep cove with the ancient city of Zarax on top of the hill, near the entrance. It must have been an excellent natural port, but today the western part has almost no water, making it much smaller. Even so, it is possible to anchor at the entrance and there is a public quay where you can moor.

Poulithra

It is a very protected one with a reasonable depth. Pity that sometimes some disrespectful fellows choose to put the boats alongside limiting the number of places.

Make sure the anchor is well-set because in the afternoon there is the possibility of strong katabatic winds coming from the mountains.

 With good tavernas ashore, Gerakas is a nice quiet place, even if sometimes a bit crowded in what respects the anchorage, that is good for only 3 or 4 boats, ideally 2, more 3 ot 4 in the quay. 

Poulithra

13 miles to the north there is a beautiful huge bay, Kyparissi, with smaller coves on both sides and plenty of good anchorages. On google Maps, it has no name, neither in C-Map, only in Navionics appears that name, that is in fact the name of a village not far on the hills.

On Navily there is no name on the map and cruisers that posted there about it, call Kiparissi to all anchorages, on both sides of the bay. 

There are two quays but you will be far better anchored. The bottom varies from sand, seaweed and rocks, depending on the place, but there are lots of sand patches and good holding seaweed. You will not have a problem finding the right spot to lay your anchor safely. 

Poulithra

The only negative point is that it is rather deep everywhere and it is difficult to anchor in less than 10 meters.

On shore, there are two little villages and both have restaurants. I have not tried them but the references on google are good. As in all this region, you can get some katabatic wind in the afternoon, but nothing to worry about if your anchor is well set. This is a lovely place that I have not visited for some years. I miss it and next year probably I will stay there for some days.

Tyrós

6 miles North you will find Fokianos, a big cove that offers good protection from north winds. It has also a restaurant, even fewer houses than Kiparissi, and like there, it is difficult to anchor on less than 10 meters.

It is a quiet and beautiful place if you make an effort not to look at the terrible scar that a new road has opened on the hillside. There is sand only very near the beach otherwise the bottom is mud and seaweed but the holding is good. There is no wi-fi.

Tyrós

Four more miles to the north and you will find Poulithra (Agios Georgios), a very good anchorage in a great natural setting. Contrary to Fokianos here the protection is from south winds. There are few places to anchor with less than 10 meters, the bottom is mostly seaweed, with some sand, but the holding is surprisingly good.

On shore, there is nothing but the natural beauty and a chapel. It is hard to understand how such a beautiful place escaped touristic "development". Probably not for long, take the opportunity to enjoy it, while it remains almost virgin.

Tyrós

Finally, at the entrance of the Argolic Gulf you can find Tyrós, which offers no anchorage but a small, surprisingly deep port. If you do not arrive too late (not very crowded) you will find a place and it is worth it. 

No water or electricity, but a lovely small village, a nice view from the boat while moored, and several good inexpensive restaurants ashore.

To the north and northeast, lays the Argolic Gulf and the huge Saronic gulf (where Athens is located). There you will find much more sailboats and an uncomparably bigger number of charters. Even so, it is possible to find some relatively quiet places. I will talk about them in the next article.